Lake Chad, and Fulani nomads

Back in Kano now. I'd spent 2 nights at/around Lake Chad. The first night I slept at a Christian pastor's house. The second day and night I spent visiting Lake Chad and then was invited to stay/roam in the bush with a family of Fulani nomads. These nomads had come from their hometown in Diffa, southeastern Niger to this bushland, which was once part of Lake Chad, 3 months ago in search of pasture for their herds of goats and cows. Of course to them, there's no border or passport.

in Kano, Nigeria. Maybe I'll head to Lake Chad next

 (indigo dye pit in Kano)

Arrived here by bush taxi from Zinder, Niger. I will be in Kano for 2 nights. I'm thinking about going to see Lake Chad next.

(breakfast: bab with sugar)

So dry and so hot

After Niamey, now I'm in Zinder. OMG, Niger's so dry and hot! Can't really get out and do anything after 11am. My washed clothes and flip flops dry in an hour, inside the room! And my average daily fluid intake is about 5L.

in Niger, no Chad

After about 19 hours on the bus, I arrived to Niamey, Niger this morning at nearly 1:00am. I didn't check into a hotel, instead I slept roughly in the open air inside the bus terminal's compound on a bench first, then on a foam mattress on the ground. It didn't feel so bad once I had the mattress, as long as I coated my exposed skin with plenty of mosquito repellent. Tonight I'll go back to the same long distance bus terminal and sleep in the open again. Why? Because it's free, and I'll take a bus from there to Zinder tomorrow.

I went to the Chadian embassy in the morning hoping to get a visa (Lonely Planet says visas are available for CFA15,000 and issued on the same day). Well, they are only half right. A visa still costs CFA15,000, true. But now the process will take several months because all the applications are now sent to Chad for approval. So my plan to travel through northern Nigeria and northern Cameroon to reach Chad is now dead.

In Benin, will head to Niger on Monday

I just arrived in Cotonou, Benin this morning. My rucksack got a bit soaked in the rain while it was actually stowed in the cargo/baggage compartment in the belly of the coach. The border crossings through Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo and Benin were swift and hassle free, though we were very lucky that the Togoless borders only just reopened today (they were shut for a few days due to Thursday's presidential election). Another coach from the same company had been stuck at the Ivorian/Togoless border since Tuesday.

Coup in Niger

Just heard the news that there's been a coup in Niger yesterday, and the borders are now closed. This casts a serious doubt on my travel plan as I've planned to reach Niger within the next 2 weeks. Let's see how things develop...